Snails and Serendipity in Vietnam

Introduction

After a rocky start to my 2019 Vietnam trip, with an unforgettable scam in Hanoi, the rest of the journey more than made up for it. The following three weeks were action-packed and filled with unforgettable moments. I joined some European travelers on a motorcycle trip through Northern Vietnam, scored a few bargain custom suits in Hội An, and wrapped things up in Ho Chi Minh City. Little did I know, my final days in Vietnam would leave me with one more story—this one, far more serendipitous than the first.

psst… if you haven’t read the first part of the story about my scam in Hanoi, you can check it out here.

How I Ended Up Eating Snails in an Alley

My first day in Ho Chi Minh was began with a slow morning in my hostel. I was sipping a Vietnamese coffee in the common room while halfheartedly planning my day. Before I got very far, an Australian couple returned to the hostel with smiles on their face. We struck up a conversation, where they detailed their gastronomical tour of Vietnam. Apparently, Saigon (Ho Chi Minh’s other name) was featured in the Netflix series “Street Food” and they had just come back from a breakfast of snails from a lady featured on the show. While snails wouldn’t usually make my list of must-try foods, hunger and the allure of a famous street cart piqued my interest. 

Curious to know more, I eagerly asked for the details. The Aussies gave me the name of an alley where the vendor had her cart, cautioning that she sells out fast. We said our goodbyes and I headed out the door. Within a few minutes, I was wondering down with dusty alleys of Ho Chi Minn with the now familiar sounds of cars honking and mixing smells of delicious street food in the air. 

As I entered the alley, I spotted the cart, piled high with snails, clams, and other shellfish cooking woks. I approached with curiosity, and the vendor waved me over, indicating that each plate would cost about $1. Hopeful that the reputation was deserved, I ordered three plates and sat down across from a guy who had just started his meal.

A Friendly Stranger

As I fumbled to eat the snails, my neighbor offered to show me the trick. He introduced himself as Tuan Anh and showed me how to use the sharp end of the safety pin provided to pull the snails from their shells. Grateful for the lesson, I joined in and we struck up a conversation in broken English.

I mentioned I was from Canda and Tuan Anh surprised me by naming a few cities including Edmonton, where I’m from. It’s rare for people outside of Canada to know much about the city, so I asked how he knew it. He explained that he was a singer, performing at Vietnamese monasteries around the world, and Edmonton happened to be home to one of them. 

Between bites of snail he mentioned that a friend had just flown back from California and wanted to invite him to eat with us. I began to feel a sense of déjà vu from my first day in Hanoi and the scam that unfolded under similar circumstances. Here was a friendly stranger sharing food with me who wanted to bring in another friend to join us. My guard went up. Was this another too-good-to-be-true setup? 

I politely declined his offer, claiming I needed to leave soon. Tuan Anh didn’t seem bothered and continued eating. A few minutes later, after a brief phone call, he told me that his friend was busy and couldn’t join us after all. I breathed a small sigh of relief.

As we finished our meal, Tuan Anh invited me to a show he was performing in that evening. His English was limited, so the details were a bit vague, but he mentioned that there would be food and that his parents would be there. I pictured a small gathering at someone’s house, but after my earlier experience in Hanoi, I was hesitant to accept the offer of another “friendly” local.

We agreed to exchange contact information to stay in touch and Tuan Anh showed me his Facebook profile. I noticed that he had thousands of friends and hundreds of likes on his posts, often wearing regal attire in his photos. I began to think that maybe this wasn’t the start of another con after all, but that this might be legit. I asked about the dress code, pointing to the shorts and t-shirt I was wearing. Tuan Anh agreed that something fancier would be preferred and I thought about the suits I had just picked up in Hội An. My new friend paid for our meal and gave me the time of the event with the location. I still didn’t know what this event was for, but I was interested to check it out. 

An Unforgettable Night

After my interesting afternoon and a visit to a museum, I returned to my hostel for a quick shower and wardrobe change. A google search of the venue told me that this wasn’t going to be the small, casual event I’d imagined—it was a large banquet hall. Now I was really intrigued!

I called a taxi and arrived at the venue, glad I had dressed up. The place was impressive with grand spiral staircases, guests in elegant suits and dresses, and a lively atmosphere. I found Tuan Anh, now dressed in a gold and black robe, greeting guests at the door. He handed me an envelope with my name on it and explained that he was the master of ceremonies for the evening. He also introduced me to his friend who arrived from California as well as his parents. I greeted them with a grin, still in disbelief that this was all real.

In the hall, I took in everything before me. The decorations were comparable to those found at a high-end wedding. There were enough round tables for 200 people with a large stage promising a big show to come. Among the crowd, I noticed a group of Buddhist monks, easily recognizable by their shaved heads and orange robes, joined by young boys dressed similarly.

I found my seat and sat down, still curious what this was all for. The woman next to me spoke fluent English and was happy to fill me in. She was Vietnam born, but had lived in Arizona for most of her life. She explained that this was a charity auction for one of the monks who ran a monastery which adopted orphaned boys and helped build bridges for remote communities. There were going to be live auctions to raise money for the monastery and their mission with shows throughout the night. Tables were all purchased by wealthy individuals, and by the look of the space I guessed they weren’t cheap. As a guest, I wasn’t expected to participate, but could enjoy in taking in the exciting night ahead. 

The lights dimmed, signalling the start of the event. The monks gathered at the front, forming a circle as they began rhythmic chanting. The guests moved in closer, mesmerized by the alternating deep hums and melodic chanting. Although I didn’t understand the language, the spiritual energy in the room was undeniable. After some time, the chanting ceased, and everyone returned to their seats for the meal ahead.

My neighbor explained that the meal would be a five-course vegetarian feast with ingredients sourced from local farms. She also whispered that the man seated across from us was the owner of one of the Vietnamese airlines and was the one who purchased this table. The first course was soon served, and though I don’t recall all the specifics, I remember that each dish was incredible. 

Between courses, the night unfolded with a series of captivating performances. First was an Old Vietnamese opera, featuring performers wearing elaborate masks and carrying oversized, cartoonish weapons to depict historic battles. It then shifted to musical performance with professional quality lighting and choreography. Later, a French fashion designer showcased his work in a dazzling fashion show. Another highlight was a painting created before our eyes and later auctioned off.

The auction itself was a spectacle. Two jade statues sold for $13,000 and other collectibles went for similar staggering amounts. The fashion designer offered custom-made suits and dresses for thousands of dollars, which were bought by many guests. By Vietnamese standards, these sums were astronomical, and it was all for a good cause. I felt grateful knowing that all the proceeds would support the monastery’s work: caring for orphans and building bridges for isolated communities. It was fascinating to witness the juxtaposition of the simple mission of the monks alongside this lavish affair. 

Conclusion

As the night wound down, I took a breath and reflected on my day filled with serendipity. I had gone from being scammed at a karaoke bar on my first day and nearly returning home to stumbling into something incredible. I ate Netflix-famous snails, met a well-known singer, and had been a select guest at a charity auction for Buddhist monks. While not every journey finishes with a story-worthy ending, this one sure had. 

My adventures solo travelling in Vietnam showed me the potential for adventure and growth that travel can have. It left me hungry to see more of the world and step outside of my comfort zone. But the excitement of adventure can also be addictive and can create expectations that are difficult to fulfill. I found myself chasing the same thrill in later trips, hoping each destination would match the magic I’d experienced in Vietnam. What I’ve learned the hard way is that expectation is a surefire recipe for disappointment. 

My first trip was as memorable as it was because I hadn’t set any expectations—I just put myself into the world and kept myself open to possibility. I didn’t try to control the experience, I simply let it unfold. It’s not about avoiding the hard days or clinging to the good ones but about embracing the ride, wherever it takes you. Setbacks are inevitable, and not every day will be Instagram-worthy, but that’s all part of the journey.

In many ways, travel mirrors life itself. We can plan every detail, but it’s often the unplanned moments that make the biggest impact: a conversation with a stranger, a flight booked on a whim, or taking a wrong turn that leads you exactly where you need to be. The most meaningful experiences come when we let go of control and allow ourselves to be surprised by the world around us. I continue to re-learn this lesson as I travel to experience the beauty of life in all of it’s complexity.