Shifting Gears Journey: Weeks 12-16 in Peru


Hi, It’s been a while since my last update—largely because I took a much-needed break from technology to connect with nature and myself. I first traveled to Peru three years ago to see major sites like the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the historic town of Cusco, and the Amazon Rainforest in Iquitos.

This time, I returned with a different intention: to spend time in deeper reflection through an ayahuasca retreat in Pucallpa (in the Amazon) and several Wacuma (San Pedro Cactus) ceremonies in Cusco, while connecting to the energy of the natural world.

Both ayahuasca and Wachuma are psychedelics known here as ‘plant medicines’ due to their potential for healing, teaching, and transformation. While different from each other, both cause altered states of consciousness as one perceives reality differently, both inwardly and outwardly.

These experiences were truly profound in ways that words cannot fully capture. I’m still working to integrate everything and apply it to my life moving forward. As I process these experiences, I may share more later—they’ve become a pivotal part of my journey.

After four months on the road, I feel I’ve lived more intensely than I have in a long time. Though my path ahead remains uncertain, I continue to find myself drawn to places and people that make each leg of my journey richer than anything I could have planned.


Reflections From a Backpack

After several months and countries of travel, I’m settling into this nomadic lifestyle. My journey has evolved beyond simply visiting new places into a spiritual pilgrimage to broaden my perspectives of the world and to grow as a person.

While the uncertainties of solo travel can be challenging, I’ve learned to embrace these obstacles as opportunities for growth. My time in Peru has helped me see what truly matters and what I can let go of. To be influenced by the world, we must first empty our glass to allow the new to come in.

I’ve realized how my constant drive for productivity has limited my ability to be present as I’ve been consumed by the future. By loosening these self-imposed constraints and focusing more on ‘being’ rather than ‘doing’, I’ve discovered a deeper connection with nature and the unfolding of life around me.

In this, a sense of separation from the world continues to loosen as I’m reminded that I come from the earth below and stars above. Whether walking barefoot on the earth or gazing at stars, I feel more connected to something larger than myself.

This shift has taught me to regularly question my priorities and embrace a simpler way of living – attending to what is needed in the present moment. While my travels will eventually end, I know that prioritizing presence in each moment and not putting off living until tomorrow is essential for a joyous life.


Discovering New Places

Pucallpa (Pop. 400,000)

Pucallpa is a rapidly growing city in Peru’s Amazon, driven primarily by logging and oil refining industries. The rapid expansion of the city was evident as I flew in. Overhead, I could see dirt roads sprawling out from the city’s core into the rainforest.

The first thing I noticed upon arriving was a recently built shopping mall juxtaposed against passing tuk-tuks and locals dressed in traditional attire. This contrast between the modern mall and ancient Amazon highlighted modernity’s relentless reach, for better or worse.

Beyond recent additions, I quickly fell in love with this city with its simple authenticity and lack of tourism. Instead of a list of sights to see, I found myself immersed in the lifestyle of a developing city with its ‘rough around the edges’ charm. Fresh-caught fish from street vendors, bumpy tuk-tuk rides that kept me present, and warm smiles from locals reminded me that joy isn’t tied to material wealth.

Pucallpa isn’t found on typical tourist itineraries—I hadn’t even heard of it before planning this trip. The city is home to a significant Shipibo indigenous population with their long-standing tradition of ayahuasca, a plant medicine that has made the area a destination for those seeking this entheogen. Admittedly, came here specifically to attend a retreat run by a friend, but found myself embracing all facets of this city.

Los Cielos (Pop. 10-20)

Los Cielos is an ayahuasca retreat centre (Earth Hospital on their website) about 45 minutes outside of Pucallpa. Our group, Sowa Charana, rented this space for a 12-day stay. The space was beautiful with its buildings made of natural materials. A secluded setting provided space to connect with nature as I spent most of my time here barefoot.

The owners actively support the local area and community. They help adjacent farms with firefighting efforts, as unsupervised field burnings often lead to uncontrolled fires. They also provide sanctuary for abandoned animals, including several species of monkeys. While keeping monkeys is controversial, these were rescued animals with a dedicated caretaker ensuring their wellbeing.

My experience with ayahuasca here was profound beyond words, leading to deep insights and perspectives. I quickly formed strong bonds with an amazing group of people in a short time. Largely removed from technology, I connected deeply with myself and the natural world in a way that’s rare in modern life.

Cusco (Pop. 440,000)

I arrived in Cusco from Pucallpa via a 45-hour bus journey. With flights being expensive around Christmas, I chose this longer but more affordable option. Fortunately, all the buses I’ve taken in Latin America have been comfortable, with large, reclining seats that made the time manageable.

Returning to Cusco after three years, I wanted to focus on reflecting on my recent experiences rather than sightseeing. I stayed at the city’s edge with friends from the ayahuasca retreat, spending time in nature and exploring ancient temples.

Templo de la Luna

Just outside my stay stood Templo de La Luna (Temple of the Moon), believed to predate the Incas (1000+ years old). Despite its age and sacred nature, the area remained alive with local activity—walking paths wound through the grounds, and children played soccer throughout the day.

I was also drawn to explore San Pedro (Wachuma), a psychedelic cactus containing mescaline traditionally used in this region. I participated in three ceremonies to deepen my reflections and connection to the world around me. These experiences revealed the layered beauty of nature and our fundamental connection to it. They strengthened my commitment to being a good steward of our planet (Pachamama). The depth of these ceremonies extends beyond what I can share here, though perhaps one day I’ll dedicate a post to them.

Taray (Pop. 4800)

Nearby to Cusco is the much smaller town of Taray. I have friends, Kevin and Britt, living here who kindly offered to let me stay for a few days. There wasn’t much to do here other than take in the sights of the mountains around. For me this was ideal as I was able to continue my process of reflection and integration.

The Faces of Travel

Though my time in Peru was largely focused on going deeper with myself, I still found connection with some incredible people.

Sowa Charana Group

Top row: Jesus, Lily, Leo, Myself, Hayley, Dave, Blanca, Lidia. Bottom row: Britt, Kevin, Kamila, Lou, Ben, Polina

During my time at the Sowa Charana retreat, I formed deep connections with both guests and facilitators. The vulnerable atmosphere allowed us to bond quickly and discover our shared experiences. Within days, I felt completely at home with this group—we could discuss anything openly, and everyone offered genuine support. Though I can’t detail everyone’s story here, we formed lasting bonds that I’m confident will endure.

Reconnecting with my Friend Des

I first met Des during my initial visit to Peru in 2021, and we’ve maintained a close friendship ever since. In 2022, I had the chance to visit her hometown of Bolsena, Italy. Now that Des has settled more permanently in Peru, we were able to spend quality time together.

Des continues to inspire me with her diverse passions and pursuits. In her professional life, she works as a flight attendant, exploring countless corners of the globe. She’s also an accomplished tailor with a degree in the field, and has trained in Nepal and Sri Lanka to practice sound healing and reiki—skills she uses to help others.

Fred and Sabine

During my stay in Taray, I had the pleasure of spending several days with my friend Kevin’s parents, Fred and Sabine, who were visiting from Germany. I first met Kevin at the ayahuasca retreat where he worked as a facilitator, and we quickly formed a friendship. Our daily routine included sharing meals and exploring the nearby town of Pisaq together. Their genuine warmth and hospitality immediately made me feel like part of their family.

Our evenings were filled with rich conversations that stretched for hours over home-cooked meals. Fred and Sabine, who live in a small town near Augsburg, shared stories of their life in Germany while we exchanged perspectives on our different cultures.

What struck me most was their approach to Kevin’s life in Peru. Despite having their son on the opposite side of the world, they came here with open hearts to understand and support his journey. Their kindness and authenticity demonstrated once again how meaningful connections can be found anywhere in the world.


One Interesting Story…

After my retreat in Pucallpa, I was invited to spend Christmas with the shaman (curandera), Lidia, and her family along with some of my newfound friends. This marked my first Christmas away from my family in Canada—and without any hint of snow. Though I missed being with my family, I knew this would be a once-in-a-lifetime Christmas experience.

The hospitality Lidia and her family showed us was extraordinary. Their property was modest: three building for living, dirt floors, and an outdoor kitchen. The entire family moved into a single living space to make room for our group of five. During my few days here, I was taken care of completely as meals were prepared, and I stayed in their space while being happily welcomed the entire time.

Our Christmas dinner in the Amazon was an unforgettable experience. Instead of Christmas trees, presents, and familiar family traditions, we had the humid rainforest air, outdoor seating, and dirt floors beneath us. Yet what remained constant was being surrounded by people I deeply cared for as we gathered in reverence for the Christmas season. Lidia even spread holiday cheer by giving each of us Santa hats. Somehow, everything felt perfect.

The feast exceeded all expectations. Each person received half a chicken, rice, potatoes, and an array of sides and desserts. After two weeks of a minimal diet during ayahuasca, we were overjoyed to see such abundant, delicious food. I managed to finish every bite, feeling deeply grateful to Lidia and her family for their extraordinary hospitality.


What I’ve Been Eating

Ceviche

With a few hours in Lima between bus rides, I found some street ceviche that ranks among the best meals of my life.

‘Diet’ Food

Food without salt, oil, or seasoning was a staple at our ayahuasca retreat. It served as a reminder of how much comfort food normally provides.

Vegetarian Food

Trying to keep a healthy diet while travelling is tough, but delicious plant-based options were available near Cusco.


Final Thoughts

With my chapter in Peru now behind me, I feel melancholic about moving on, having cherished the deep reflection and meaningful connections I found with people here. Yet, I know that moving forward will continue to provide lessons and experiences in unexpected ways.

I’m currently in Bolivia where I’ve been exposed to yet another fascinating part of Latin America. Less visited by tourism, Bolivia offers unparalleled access to pristine nature, and authentic culture.

My plan for the next leg of my journey is to head south towards Patagonia in Chile where I’ll meet a friend to hike in one of the world’s most magnificent regions. In the next few weeks, I’ll be traveling more than 5000km overland to reach the southern tip of the continent.

While uncertainty still lies ahead, I’m discovering that being present to each day’s offerings is the true essence of travel and life. By letting go of control, I’ve placed myself at the whim of the universe and continue to be amazed by where I find myself. Through surrender to something greater, my experiences have become more profound than anything I could have planned.

“You don’t need to see the entire path. Just take the first step. The rest will be revealed as you go—like driving at night, only able to see as far as your headlights.” – Tim Ferriss

With love,
Adam

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