Hi and I hope you’re doing well! As these updates continue, I’m finding them a helpful way to reflect on my journey so far as I look forward to sharing a piece of it with you. There’s so much happening that I can’t possibly squeeze it all into one email, so I appreciate you sticking with me as I try to figure out what the balance is.
My Mexican adventure wrapped up in the vibrant state of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is home to a diversity of rich cultures, which was evident during my stay. It’s a patchwork of indigenous groups, many of whom still converse in their ancestral tongues – languages that have withstood the test of time.
But Oaxaca isn’t just a cultural hub it’s also a study in contrasts. It’s one of Mexico’s poorest states, with over 60% of its population living below the poverty line, while simultaneously drawing in travellers from around the globe which aids it’s economy. The juxtaposition of economic challenges and rich cultural heritage creates a unique atmosphere that’s both humbling and inspiring.
Though my stay didn’t expose me directly to the harsher realities faced by many living here, I couldn’t help but feel a deep appreciation for the resilience and warmth of the Oaxacan people. Here, I was recieved kindly as I took time to explore a few of the smaller towns in the state. Oaxaca is cultural treasure trove that rewarded me with each place I took the time to explore.
Reflections From a Backpack
My personal progress this year has been transformative. In January, I had a single goal: unravel my life in Canada to travel. Despite self-doubt and that persistent inner voice telling me I couldn’t do it, I chose to listen to my heart. The author Peter Koenig’s words, “Every truth begins as a lie,” became my mantra as I challenged my rational mind.
As I shared my plans with others, I noticed a remarkable shift occur–my dream slowly became my reality, teaching me a powerful lesson about intention that I can now apply universally. This experience has shown me the power of intent, applicable to any aspect of life. Meditation has taught me that I am not my thoughts and this only serves to reaffirm it.
I’ve been contemplating the intentionality behind this journey. What remains constant in changing environments? Where does my compass point amidst unpredictable seas? For me, it’s connection, service, and growth. These give me confidence I’m on the right path, though like a ship in stormy waters, my compass requires regular adjustment.
Travel, like life, presents distractions that can redirect us from our true aims. These manifest as worries, stress, or the allure of immediate pleasures – what I call ‘fireworks.’ While enjoyable, they can pull us off course. While travelling, there’s always an excuse to drink, eat excessively, or sleep in. Like Odysseus on an island of indulgence, we must heed the voice of discernment that urges us back to our journey.
I’ve discovered a delicate balance between following my inner compass and embracing life’s joys and duties. Perfection, I’ve learned, is an illusion. Even in the dream-like setting of travel, reality often diverges from my expectations. I continue to confront global injustices and personal shortcomings. I’ve found my inner critic to be more active than it’s ever been as it’s quick to analyze and judge my every decision. There’s no perfect world or life. Instead, I view my ideals as a distant horizon – a guide to help me navigate as I’m buffeted by life’s currents and learn along the way. Ultimately, I’ve realized that true harmony can only originate from within, regardless of our current circumstance. Though, embodying this truth feels like it may be a lifelong endeavour
Discovering New Places
Oaxaca City (Pop. 300,000)
Oaxaca City, the capital of the Oaxaca state is known for its amazing food and Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) festivities. I arrived a few days before Day of the Dead, and could feel the city come to life with an influx of people, colourful streets, and nightly events. I spent my time here taking in the unfoldings around me and wandering the cobblestone streets as I explored the markets and unique architecture of the city. I spent evenings watching the comparsas (street parades) and finding new places to listen to live music.
Monte Albán is the most renowned archaeological site near Oaxaca City. maintaining my fitness routine, I ran 8km to explore this ancient capital of the Zapotec civilization. Inhabited over 2,500 years ago, it once boasted a population of about 30,000 people. The image above showcases the city’s ceremonial center, featuring its iconic Mesoamerican pyramids.
Teotitlan de Valle (Pop. ~6000)
Nested in the foothills of Oaxaca is the puebla of Teotitlan de Valle, a small town known for traditional hand-woven rugs. This little gem was just a $2 and 40 minute collectivo taxi ride from Oaxaca City. Entering this town felt like taking a step back in time as I observed the traditional way of life being preserved. The town’s name means “Land of Gods” in Nahuatl, and it felt like there was something truly magical in the air. As I wandered the town, friendly locals (mostly elderly) wearing hand-made garments would wave and smile, their warmth making me feel instantly welcomed.
I came to Teotitlan to experience an authentic Day of the Dead celebration, and it didn’t disappoint. The flashy shows and parties of Oaxaca City were replaced by an intimate and reflective atmosphere. For people of Teotitlan, Day of the Dead was a time to spend with family in remembrance of passed loved ones.
I found myself in the pantheon (graveyard) surrounded by families decorating graves with vibrant flowers, sharing meals, and listening to live music. It was a beautiful reminder that the topic of death doesn’t have to be a morbid affair. The town’s indigenous Zapotec heritage was evident everywhere, from the intricate handwoven rugs to the Zapotec language spoken on the streets. I even learned a few Zapotec greetings – “Saxgi” and “Saxtili” (good morning/afternoon) which became my go-to phrases, often earning me a warm smile or even an invitation to share a meal and mezcal.
Each morning, I’d head to the local market, soaking in the atmosphere and marvelling at how different life here was from what I was used to. Teotitlan may be small, but the four days I spent there left a big impression on me.
Hierve el Agua
A day trip to Hierve el Agua with some Kiwi friends I made at my hostel was remarkable. We rode in the back of a pickup truck to see these “petrified waterfalls,” formed by mineral-rich water flowing over cliffs. The site, meaning “the water boils,” features bubbling springs and pools running into stunning calcium formations.
Mitla (Pop. 12,000)
My last days in Oaxaca were spent in Mitla, another nearby town. I didn’t have a plan coming here, but had a few days before my flight to Panama. I stayed at the Confetti Pool Hostel where I met an amazing group of people from Washington D.C.
Here, the Day of the Dead festivities continued with a comparse (street parade) where it felt like the entire town gathered to follow people in costume. Beers flowed freely, shots of mezcal were handed out too as we all followed a muñecone (balloon puppet) through the streets. The comparse would stop at different parts of the town for more people to join from their houses. It went on for hours and I observed the number of people staggering and cans of beer on the street grow with each street we turned down. This seemed like a ritualized way for everyone in the town to get let loose. The night ended with a dance to live music in the square that went late into the night.
I also had a chance to check out a nearby cave paintings dated to more than 10,000 years old. The site was just a few kilometers from Mitla and had several caves with various paintings ranging from hands to cryptic symbols and scenes of people hunting.
The Faces of Travel
Hector and Frida
Venturing out alone for a drink in Oaxaca City, I met Hector and Frida, a lawyer and doctor from Tijuana. We spent hours chatting in both Spanish and English as the drinks flowed late into the night. Our conversation delved into deep topics, serving as yet another example of how wonderful experiences can unfold from unexpected encounters.
Bryan and Nestor
While eating breakfast at the Teotitlan Market, I met two cousins, Bryan and Nestor. We struck up a conversation, and they offered to show me around their small town. The three of us rode on Bryan’s motorbike to sites around the town before arriving at his family’s home. where they weave rugs. OUtside of his home were four looms, one for each of Bryan’s famly members to weave rugs. Both Bryan and nestor expressed how much they enjoy their wor weaving as it keeps them connected to their heritage and offers flexibility in their schedules.
If this sounds reminiscent of my Vietnam story, I had the same thought. However, Bryan and Nestor proved to be genuine locals who simply wanted to share their culture with a traveler.
When I asked about poverty in their village, they explained that everyone has food to eat and a roof over their head—the people here don’t feel a sense of lack for living a simle life. This experience served as yet another testament to how the concept of a rich life varies wherever I go and doesn’t have to be tied to the unending pursuit of more.
Ladies of Teotitlan
Walking through Teotitlan, I spotted a lady carrying a large load. Embracing the friendly atmosphere of the town, I offered to carry her oversized bag of chillies. She accepted with a smile and we walked a few blocks to her house. When we arrived, she invited me inside where I met a group of women from her family. I learned that they spend many of their evenings together, socializing and preparing food.
I joined them for a few hours, helping to peel roasted cacao beans. They offered me a beer and fed me tamales. It was an incredible experience to see smiles on everyone’s faces as they chatted in Zapotec and laughed together.
Angel, Kiki, and John
In Mitla, I met a fun (and slightly eccentric) group of friends from Washington D.C. — Angel, Kiki, and John. We spend an evening taking in the street parade in the town and bonded over our awe of the vibrant fiesta that was surrounding us. We realized were all headed to Mexico City next, and they generously offered me a couch to crash on before my flight out to Panama. Like many travel friendships, our time together was brief but intense. I savored every moment with this loving group.
Angel has an incredible sense of humor, and shared many pearls of wisdom. Kiki is the life of the party, and helped me shop for my upcoming volunteer stint in the Panamanian rainforest. John, a selfless soul, made sure everyone in the group was well taken care of before he thought about himself. I hope our paths cross again someday.
One Interesting Story…
As Day of the Dead approached, Oaxaca City hosted a free concert by Panteon Rococó, one of Mexico’s biggest rock bands. Near the front of the crowd, I found myself in a spontaneous dance circle. Heart racing, I joined in and did a handstand walk, earning cheers from strangers. The circle later evolved into a mosh pit, which I also joined, where chaos and camaraderie intertwined during songs.
This exhilarating experience was a powerful reminder: Life will give us opportunities to live fully, but it’s our choice whether we take them. I try to err on the side of ‘yes’, and have rarely been disappointed.
What I’ve Been Eating
Mole Oaxaca’s mole is a culinary masterpiece. The famous mole negro blends chocolate and spices into a rich, complex sauce that’s simply unforgettable. |
Champulines Crunchy grasshoppers, a local delicacy, are sold as popular snacks throughout Oaxaca. |
Market Food From hearty enchiladas to sizzling DIY BBQ, Oaxaca’s markets offer a delicious and budget-friendly culinary adventure. |
Final Thoughts
As my time in Mexico comes to a close, I can confidently say that it’s been one of my favourite countries to travel through. Any difficulties were far outweighed by my fond experiences of the kind people, vibrant culture, and delectable culinary options. The challenges I faced were largely internal as I contiue to adjust to a drastically different lifestyle. I’m choosing to lean into the uncertainty and discomfort as this is where growth occurs.
Oaxaca exceeded any expectations I came in with. I continue to find that with the right approach and attitude, I’m able to get off the beaten path to explore the nuance of each place I go. Here, knowing some Spanish and a few words of Zapotec went a long way. There’s a lot more to Oaxaca that I’d like to come back to explore – from the misty mushroom town of San Jose Del Pacifico to the coast of Puerto Escondito (where I hear nudist beaches aren’t too far away), It won’t be hard to build an itinerary for another trip.
I’m currently in the rainforest of Panama volunteering at a non-profit for ecological sustainability and education. My first week here has been the plunge into nature I’ve been yearning for, but I’ll save the details for my next update.
I’d also love to hear from you! It’s great to make this a 2-way conversation as I hear what you love most and whether there’s anything you’d like to hear more about.
“The great illusion of life is the illusion of separation” – Unknown
With love,
Adam